Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Section 3: The Journey > Chapter 60: The final chapter


June 24rd, 2010

I don't recall how long I've been riding, only that I have seldom stopped. I have skipped meals, poured water onto my seething head, wrapped wet shards of cloth across my face, relied on colas to keep me hydrated and sane, budgeted pee breaks only at the brink of convulsions. I have kept the throttle twisted till my wrists beg for mercy. For how long I do not know. Merely that its too long for comfort. I can sense the evening approaching. I can tell I haven't the strength to crawl through the night. I know I haven't an option for I do not wish to stop. The R-15 will fly through traffic. I have seldom seen it so eager to please.

The sun will part ways with my path. Much to early, I think to myself. If only it had stayed a little bit longer. But it must do what it must, as do I.

I seem to have slipped into a reverie. I see little of the traffic. I see lesser still of the tarmac for the glaze of oncoming beams blurs my fatigued vision. I haven't the strength to ride. I haven't he mind to beg me to stop. I will splash my face with water at several stops in a desperate bid to stay awake. Its difficult to stay upright when the spirit is broken. I wish to ride no more.

Mumbai 100 kms - the board announces. I will latch on to a cage with an MH-02 inscription determined not to let go. In time he will lose me. I ride orphaned, seeking the hand of another. A two wheeler rushes by me, signals right, I believe I'm seeing thing, it looks like...

Spiderweb! I caught up to him! But that's not possible. It's been hours since he left. I signal left too and halt as he does. I inquire as to how he's still here. He explains that he has since taken his time, stopped for meals and taken rest before proceeding. I wish I had too for none of what he says makes any sense to me. I have lost all semblance of time and space. I just stand there staring in Spiderweb's direction.

We decide to continue riding. I follow him for in this moment he has more sanity than I. Perceptions change quickly. For he who I had wished to ride with no more, will now ride me to safety.

Several hours later the familiar sight of Fountain restaurant will peak over the horizon as our steeds glide onto the Thane Ghodbunder junction. We will ride into Fountain to be greeted by Cinderella and Razorblade, the latter being a biker himself, and one who has scaled Khardungla a year before us.

An hour later, I find myself in the warm embrace of a familiar bed. My consciousness will dissipate in the blink of an eye.


June 25th, 2010

The dim glow of the monitor touches my face. I can barely type for I haven't laid hands on a keyboard in a while.

"What do I do now? What could be more fun than this?", I ask a kin.

"Blog about your experiences no? Should be fun.", she says.

"I doubt anyone would read it."

"Then do it for yourself. Its a good way to relive the memories."

"Point taken."

Fingers to the keypad, I begin typing...

Section 1: In Anticipation > Chapter 1: Butterflies



May 13th, 2010

I'm afraid to be happy... 


******* THE END *******

Section 3: The Journey > Chapter 59: The departures

June 24rd, 2010

Despite Spiderweb's desire to rent a lodge, we've decided to spend the night resting at a dhaba that has conveniently laid out khatia's for all and sundry. For in renting a lodge we would lose time and time we have not. While the three sleep, I guard our belongings hoping that I would get my share of slumber once one awakens. But none do, not until sunrise. I will spend several minutes trying to get them to awaken, often resorting to mercilessly spraying them with water - bottles of which were willingly shared by the owner for he wish we left too.

Motorbreath, Romeomike and I are ready to rumble. Spiderweb continues to lie horizontal despite several requests from each of us. He now claims he has a body ache. Frustrated with his acts the night prior we gladly accept his suggestion to ride ahead. This time round we care not for the man left behind for he has admitted that he cares not for us.

We throttle hard, much harder than I had anticipated. Motorbreath it would seem, prefers that Spiderweb never caught up. With consistent speeds in the three digits, it was unlikely that we would see Spiderweb again. A few hours into the ride though, hunger will catch up with us. We rest for food. Romeomike suggests that we wait a little while longer, to see if Spiderweb catches up. Should we not see him for another hour, we would continue our journey. Until then, he recommends, I get a shut eye. I comply. We will wait a lot longer than an hour but eventually, Spiderweb will catch up and once again we ride together. This time round though Spiderweb suggests that he ride ahead and leave us behind for he expects to give an interview tomorrow, making it critical for him to reach Mumbai by tonight. Happy to get rid of him one way or the other, we accept his request to forge ahead.

But for a while Spiderweb will trail and having being given the responsibility of tailing, I will wait for him. He recommends that I continue riding; I deny the idea stating that so long as he rides with us, I will ensure he remains with the group. It now becomes apparent why Spiderweb trails; he needs fuel. Although his decision to fall back confounds me for he could have just as well refuelled while he was in the lead. The reasons for his decision to fall back will become readily apparent in the moments to come.

For as Spiderweb races off into distance, Motorbreath will announce that he is low on fuel as will Romeomike. We will halt at the next fuel stop. At this point Motorbreath will also announce that he hasn't any money - that Spiderweb had promised to loan him the necessary funds and had then backed down en route stating that he too did not have sufficient funds. This blew my lid for I knew Spiderweb had the necessary funds - I had seen him pull out a big wad of cash just a while ago and I had noticed that he had plenty more to cover not just for two, but for three. I loan Motorbreath the money but I do grumble for it seems irresponsible to travel without back up funds. I will now have to revisit the ATM to grab additional funds.

As minutes turn to miles, we find ourselves within a hundred kilometers from Ahmedabad. We will stop for a pee break. Motorbreath will attempt to squeeze out a few more clicks on his cell phone. In doing so, he will make a disappointing discovery. His tyres have finally given in completely - more specifically the rear - the tyre treads now show through, dangerously vulnerable to shards and shrapnel.  Motorbreath will now demand that we get the tyre be changed. And while he may be justified in his stand, I am now at my wit's end. For it means two things - more time wasted over something that should have been fixed even before we started and more funds spent from my account for Motorbreath carries not a penny with him. Anger turns to sarcasm, for when Motorbreath mentions that perhaps we should enter Ahmedabad city to change the tyre, I suggest he get a complete bike re-modelling done while he's at it. The sarcasm hits home for Motorbreath now flies into a blinded abusive fury as he screams reminding me that he never suggested any such thing, merely that he did not have a choice. Blinded by my own anger I will retort that had he been more responsible with his bike preparations, I would not have had to baby sit his fucking ass throughout the ride, tailing him, ensuring he never fell. He will remind me that he too has been there for me in times of need. Enraged I will exclaim my spills were not due to lack of prep but nature's will.

With rising tempers, Motorbreath will speak no more. He will throttle off and ride off leaving Romeomike and I biting his dust.

This is where it all ends of me. I'm done. I have lost every ounce of ride in me. I wish to ride no more. Not with them in the least. Thankless son of a b#$@%. After all the times I've stood up for him, after all the times I've pulled him through, after all the time I've spent tailing him, ensuring someone's there for him, after all the time I waited on him while Spiderweb disappeared on us, this is the thanks I get. This is the attitude I get. And for what? This isn't my fault. This isn't my fight. This was never my fight. Why must I bear the brunt for his casual attitude towards his steed.

Romeomike and I will throttle up. We will catch up with Motorbreath in no time for he limits his revs for fear of a tyre blowout. With sleep overpowering my now exhausted body, I will turn to Romeomike and explain...

"I'm done Raman. I wanna go home. I don't want to ride with him or for him anymore. I just want to go home now. Will you manage him? I will give you money for the repairs if you need it but I don't want to wait any longer. I cannot ride long. Sleep will catch up with me soon. I need to ride. Will you manage things?"

Romeomike, in his characteristic calm demeanor will say the three words I longed to hear, "I will manage".

No sooner do I hear these words, I rev up. For the first time in days, the R-15 will hit the rev limiter on every gear. I pass Motorbreath, I do not slow down, I do not halt, I do not look in his direction.

I will leave this man behind, for, in my opinion, he does not deserve another beside him. I will subsequently regret this stand, for I know now, "Leave no man behind", knows no exceptions.

[ Note: Motorbreath and I subsequently made amends and he has repaid every penny he has owed me within a week of our return. The above is merely deviant behaviour on both our parts on account of fatigue. Exchanges such as the above were under conditions of extreme physical stress and neither of us was accurate in our behaviour. I admit that it was wrong to leave him at that juncture. ]

Section 3: The Journey > Chapter 58: The amazing Spiderweb

June 23rd, 2010

It's half past six since noon. Romeomike has resolved to spend time with his kin. We - Motorbreath, Spiderweb and I decide to explore just a little bit of Delhi on our own. I'll see a different side of Delhi that evening as traffic thins and the quiet resolve of structures dipped in history seeps through. They stand tall, with an air of royalty. Just as they should, for they have braved much they have braved long.

We find solace in the shadows of India Gate, spend time drinking nariyal paani, listening to tales of Spiderweb's childhood in the warm embrace of the capital. Spiderweb has insisted that we stay back, wrap our steeds and ship them to Mumbai several times today. He does not wish to leave. He shares none of our desire to return. As night falls and we stroll through the dimly lit streets, for a few moments, I wish I was in agreement with Spiderweb. But I must not be.  I must finish what I started. I must ride to Mumbai.



June 24th, 2010

We intended to leave at the crack of dawn. We leave at 2:30pm. Typical.

Facebook update

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25 June 2010 at 13:53

The ride throws no challenges, save for one. Spiderweb complains that his steed lacks power. The assertion surprises us for we have consistently seen him touch three digits. In time though the mighty Karizma will display signs of fatigue. We will mock Spiderweb by pretending to cowl and overtake him at speeds of a mere 60kmph. His steed now sails at 50kmph. Our tomfoolery will annoy him no end for he will consistently throttle up and attempt to gain on us. But the broken steed is no match for our healthy beasts. We continue to mock him but we do not desert him. In time, the mockery will get old and we ride beside him. Spiderweb continues to lead. We let him for his steed now determines our pace.

As night falls, hunger sets in. We ask Spiderweb to halt at the next dhaba. He nods. A few kilometers out, he passes a dhaba without halting. Then another. Then another. I catch up to him and ask him why he won't stop.

"I want to eat chicken", he says. "All those were pure veg.", he adds.


And so we race from one dhaba to the next, in search of chicken and while we find some that do serve chicken, none is available at the hour we approach them. As we ride away from settlements, the frequency of dhabas starts thinning out. We are exhausted, Romeomike rides precariously close to slumber for he hasn't slept a wink the night prior. But Spiderweb shows no signs of yielding.

Frustrated, tired and hungry, we, Motorbreath, Romeomike and I, will rebel against Spiderweb's childishness and turn our steeds into the next dhaba that we find. That's it. We ride no more. Eat what we get we will. Rest we will. Ride we will only once we are rested. Spiderweb may continue his quest for chicken at his own peril.

Spiderweb will not take the mutiny lightly. He will escalate his juvenile quotient accusing Motorbreath once again for riding slow at onset of our journey. This time though Motorbreath will simply ignore the rant for much has changed we first set out. Nothing, apparently, has changed at Spiderweb's end for he will continue his rant. He will reminisce about his time with Razor, Shiva and others, claiming they would have understood his craving for chicken.

The ridiculousness of his conversation lures me into anger as I suggest he ride with his favourites the next time round and leave us the fuck alone cause we didn't want to ride with him no more. In time, we will all settle down.

The next order of business is getting the clutch plates on the Karizma replaced. We are told that we will find respite only in the whereabouts of Jaipur. And so we continue to ride on a now pitch dark and lonely highway in our quest to find a mechanic. We will in a matter of hours as the clock strikes 11:30pm. As we enter Jaipur, I will ask of the others if they wish to break for tea. They agree, except for Spiderweb who will ignore my comment and continue riding, expecting us to follow.

We don't.

We part our steeds, the three of us now, and engage in long conversations about the life back home. In time Spiderweb will call, asking me of my location. I will tell him we are where he left us. He will ask why we chose not to follow. I will reply, "Because we didn't want to." It appears he has found a mechanic a kilometer from where we now stand. We tell him we will catch up with him. We have no intention to.

Several hours later, eager to head home, we will head in his direction. His steed will take another ten minutes to spring to life. And just like that, we're back on the road. We will lose the highway and for a brief moment, will find ourselves within the embrace of Jaipur. I long to see more, but we must continue forth.

As always, we will stop for Kulfi. In a bizarre moment, Motorbreath will walk up to a kid, point a finger at him and say,

"I know what you did". 

The child will burst into tears leaving Motorbreath embarrassed as he tries to console the guilty lad. Guilty of what? We might never know.

The engines roar once more and we push ahead. It's past mid-night. We have a long way to go.

Monday, November 28, 2011

Section 3: The Journey > Chapter 57: Chalo Dilli


June 22nd, 2010

We ride to Delhi today. A brief stop at Kullu. Torrential rains a few kilometers from Mandi. A power slide by Spiderweb directly in the path of a parked sedan, sending its occupants into absolute hysteria and us into hysterical laughter, brunch breaks, lunch breaks, pee breaks and a ride at a casual pace is all that we will see on this day of June. With oxygen levels rising to meet our decline, the steeds now breathe easy as their whimpers turn to stoic roars. Motorbreath and Romeomike will share a smoke at every occassion, sending Spiderweb into a rant about smokers wasting precious travel time. I will agree vehemently.

I haven't much else to say, except that I'll let the clicks do the talking. See you on the other side.













June 23rd, 2010

It's 6:30am. We've only just arrived at our destination for yesterday - Vasant Kunj, Delhi. We collapse under the sheets quickly...

Section 3: The Journey > Chapter 56: Reunion

June 20th, 2010

RomeoMike will relate his story, his thankfulness for the help of the thekedaar in getting a tempo to ship his steed, his desperation to ride, his crossing of Barlachala without halt, the expense of 3000 bucks to get here and his ever present desire to have crossed Barlachala beside us. I will ask for his forgiveness. He is quick to forgive. Motorbreath, the thekedaar and a couple of others will help dismount the steed. We will eat dinner, make calls to loved ones, sink into a peaceful bliss.

I have but one thought as I meet nothingness.

I want to live...
just a little bit longer...
just a little bit harder. 


June 21st, 2010


I can tell Spiderweb is in no mood to ride. He tries to convince us to stay but for a couple of days. We deny the prospect. I have lived every moment of this journey. But I need to return for I need to earn my living, as do the others. But before we depart, we must fix RomeoMike's steed. Fortunately, a mechanic is not hard to find. He will replace the clutch plates as the steed springs to life.

Spiderweb is determined to stay. He will delay our departure by asking the mechanic to make several minor and mostly unnecessary adjustments to his steed. Three hours past noon, he will have echoed decision not to ride any further for, he claims, he does not wish to traverse any ghats in the shadows of the night. Tired of his tantrums, once again, we give in.

But Spiderweb will go one step further. He will now try and convince us to make a 4 day stay at Delhi at the very same residence the housed us on our journey to Leh. He tries to lure us with the prospect of an exciting night life within the confines of Delhi. We refuse, stating lack of time. He then tries to convince us to cut our journey short - to ship our steeds from Delhi to Mumbai and to fly to Mumbai - thereby saving 3 days of travel and giving us an opportunity to explore Delhi. Once again we refuse, for we wish to do Mumbai-Leh-Mumbai, nothing less and now, certainly nothing more. He will give up in frustration, a frustration that will continue to grow at several ends.

As the day floats on by, we walk across Manali's market place. We will bump into the Poles who made it here at noon. We make small talk, they promise to meet us at the same location at nightfall, a promise they will not keep and one I did not expect them to.

We will sample the food, admire the gorgeous newly wed brides, explore a botanical garden, share memories of the days gone by and resolve to keep the biking spirit alive. By the end of the day I will have fallen in love with a punjabi girl who travels with her family and bumps into us quite often. I will not ask her her name, nor take her picture, merely revel in the joy that I am still capable of fleeting love, for I had once convinced myself that I should never love again.








And with that, we will return to our quarters. As we turn out the lights, Spiderweb will beg us not to snore. We will refuse to comply.

We hope to reach Delhi by nightfall tomorrow.


Section 3: The Journey > Chapter 55: Manali

June 20th, 2010

The snow melts away. The challenges recede. We ride free. Through tarmac, through dust, through streams seldom travelled. There's a childishness in our revs, a sense of freedom in our paths. We have entered Himachal. The terrain celebrates as lush green vegetation rushes up to line our path.



Many miles later, and riding several hours on reserve, we will find ourselves in Keylong. We halt for hunger. I halt in desperation to defecate. I will visit restroom several times. Each time, on my return,  Spiderweb and Motorbreath will let out "Aaahhhhhhh!"s in mock relief.

I find them whispering to a member of the fairer sex - perhaps informing her of the purpose of my regular disappearance. I find her laughing incredulously. We strike up a conversation, her and I. She speaks of her employment with Sony Big TV, of her solo travels across Ladhak, asks us of our adventures, aids us in getting quicker service, introduces us to some of her new found friends and finally disappears into her quarters. As a parting gift, she informs me that the nearest petrol pump is but a few miles away at Tandi - an unbelievable relief for we had expected not to get a drop until Manali. I had expected to run out much sooner. I will leave with but a thought thanking her.



Through ups and downs and mud and grime, we finally make it to Tandi where we will refuel our steeds to the brim. In a casual conversation with a curious onlooker, Spiderweb will concede that the R-15 outperformed the others owing to its FI, much to my disinterested amusement.

Many more miles will roll on by. Spiderweb will push harder. I sense he hopes to catch up with the Poles. We will hit a small settlement and find the Poles walking the streets. We will reconnect with them only to be told that they can go no further. A comrade has now has impaired vision due to a bee sting on his eye lid. I recall bees splattering on my visor a few miles out.

They ask us of RomeoMike. I grudgingly inform them that we left him behind. There's disappointment in their eyes. There's disappointment in my soul. We shouldn't have left him. I curse myself, a practice that will continue for the length of our journey to Manali.

Spiderweb will encourage us to camp with the Poles. There's just one problem. None has any money left. The last of our cash was spent refuelling the steeds. The closest ATM, it would appear, awaits us in Manali. We must not stop. We cannot stop.

We will trudge on, through thick and thin. The ascend to Rohtang will be choked by dense fog impenetrable by beams. We push through for we have pushed through far greater. Our progress will be commemorated by snow flakes shimmering around us like star dust. Several brooks cross our path. Our metal hugs their icy embrace.





We will eventually scale the pass. What I see will dishearten me. For the wretched hands of Commerce have raped the land. Tents in yellow and blue marr the landscape. Plastic waste suffocates the terrain.


My camera will take one last shot, before it gives in.


The descend from Rohtang is brutal. In a path laced with potholes, public and pissed off commuters, our steeds struggle for traction.  My feet grow numb and my wrists scream in agony as the R-15 gets knocked around mercilessly. 

In time, we make it, disheartened, disgruntled and with a great disdain for the commercialization of Rohtang. My mind turns to the several miles of freshly laid tarmac deep within the value, allowing for an increasing number of casual tourers, raping the land, stone by stone, bit my bit. Indeed we are the precursors to a much larger movement. One, if not contained, will some day bring the valley to its knees.

Twice over, Spiderweb will try and convince us to halt, to take refuge in a settlement. Twice over, we must remind him that we haven't a penny left. We will bear the brunt of misguided anger. In darkness and pain, we will make our way to Manali. Spiderweb will remind us, several times, that we had  slowed him down. For if it were up to him, he would have hit Manali several hours ago. We say nothing. His childishness exhausts me. My guilt over leaving RomeoMike behind devours me.

Exhausted, defeated, we will find shelter in the first lodge we find.

As night falls, my phone buzzes incessantly. This is the first time I've heard it ring in 15 straight days. The name the screen flashes brings a tear to my eye...

It's Romeomike. And a call from him could mean only one thing...


He's in Manali.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Section 3: The Journey > Chapter 54: On conquests

June 20th, 2010

In the shadow of my conquest, my hopes and dreams turn to dust. How long have I said someday. How long have I said maybe. How long have I wished... wished to see that which I believed. I see it now. Several lives have I forsaken. Several lives have forsaken me. An uncertain, unpredictable, undestined chain of events leads me to where I stand.

I did not have to be here.

For I have once chosen to end my life, chosen not to be metaphorical, chosen to trade space and time for an eternity in peace. It seemed worth it. In time, I will have recognized that my immortality in non-existence awaits me not because I wish it, but inspite of it. I will have realized that in my quest to live with others, for others, of others, and by others, I had perhaps neglected to live for just one more...

Me.

My senses grow numb. My knees weak. The quest is over. Barlacha has been conquered. Its all downhill from here...


"What is the use of this plastic", says the Major inspecting the area as he taps my knee guards.

"It's to protect me from getting hurt."

"Does it protect you?"

"Better than most people."